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熊月之
松江作为地名,其内涵既有古今之异,又有大小之别。
松江本为华亭县境内一条河流。《尚书•禹贡》有“三江既入,震泽底定”之说,对于何为“三江”,后人众说纷纭,其中一说指松江、娄江与东江。这一说法源于东晋人。古之松江,为一大河,后称吴淞江,源出太湖,东流入海,流域经今昆山、嘉定、青浦、上海市区,在唐代,其下游地区属华亭县。
华亭县设于公元751年(唐天宝十年),1277年(元至元十四年)升为华亭府,翌年改名松江府。这是松江作为府名之始。1292年(元至元二十九年),分华亭县东北境置上海县,一县析为两县,均属松江府。以后松江府下属县屡有变迁,总的趋向是县越分越多,县面积越来越小。到1805年(清嘉庆十年),古华亭县已演变为1府(松江府)、7县(华亭、上海、青浦、娄、奉贤、金山、南汇)、1厅(川沙)。1912年废府,华亭、娄县合并为华亭县,1914年改称松江县,1958年划归上海市,1998年改为松江区。
由此看来,今上海市中心城区与松江、青浦、奉贤、金山、南汇等区都是源于古华亭县,都是属于原松江府,现在的松江区署所在地,就是古华亭县署所在地,古代松江府署所在地,所以,论传统,今松江是古华亭、古松江的嫡传;论关系,古华亭、古松江是今上海市的母体。
正是由于这层关系,今6000多平方公里的上海地区的19个区县中,论历史文化积淀,松江最为悠久丰厚。
松江区境在长江三角洲古冈身之西,成陆远比今上海市区东部为早。据考古发现,约6000年前,九峰一代已有先民繁衍、生息,从事耕耨、渔猎、饲养家畜等劳动。广富林遗存的发现,为研究太湖流域先民的生活提供了珍贵的资料。西汉时,区境为产盐重要地区。三国时,东吴陆逊以军功被封为华亭侯,华亭由此出名。陆氏为江东望族,世居九峰之一的小昆山。陆逊及其子陆抗、孙陆机、陆云皆为魏晋时期名人,武略文才,名震遐迩。现藏故宫博物院的陆机的《平复帖》,是极为罕见的具有重要历史价值与艺术价值的国之瑰宝。小昆山有二陆读书台遗址,松江县城内有陆机旧居遗址。松江一带能有陆氏家族这样的群英出现,说明魏晋时期这一带经济、文化已达到相当高的程度。上海地区单独设县始于华亭,也从一个侧面说明华亭发展程度较他处为高。
区境在近代以前,既是华亭府或松江府的治所,也是华亭县、娄县的治所,一府号令,尽由此出。官府机构或与府、县政治有关的众多机构多设于此,如府衙、县衙、察院、教场、行宫等。文化方面,文庙、府学、县学、试院、云间书院、云间义学、太平书院、尊经阁等机构散布松江城内。这里教育发达,科举昌盛,从宋到清,区境有500多人得中进士,为上海地区各区县之首。元、明、清三代,松江文人荟萃,书法家赵孟挑,文学家陶宗仪,书画家董其昌,民族英雄陈子龙、夏完淳均名重一时。著名的松江画派在中国画坛上自树一帜,影响深远。陈子龙与柳如是的爱情悲剧,经陈寅恪《柳如是别传》的播扬,已成为江南才子佳人故事的名篇。
明清时期松江是全国棉纺织中心。乡村纺织,城中亦然,机声轧轧,子夜不休。这里出产的布质量好、产量高、品种多,有松江大布、松江小布、三梭布、尤墩布、丁娘子布等,销售范围遍及全国,包括湖广、西北、东北等地,还远销到日本。棉织品加工业也很发达,明万历以后,松江城西,单暑袜店就有百余家。宋应星在
《天工开物》中说,“凡棉布尺寸皆有,而织造尚松江”。松江因此赢得了“衣被天下”的美誉。
近代以后,因上海城市的迅速发展,松江政治、经济、文化地位自然不能与以前相比,但仍然有鲜明的特色。
这里是上海市郊主要商品粮生产基地之一,农副产品在上海市场上占很大比重。1971年以前,其农业产值一直超过工业产值,在经济中占主导地位,1972年以后工业产值才稳定地超过农业。1990年,松江县被国务院评为全国夏季粮油生产先进单位和粮食生产先进县,列为全国商品粮基地县。所产松江薄稻、香粳米、四鳃鲈鱼、佘山兰花笋、草长浜红菱、泖河大蟹为著名特产。
松江境内名胜古迹甚多。山明水秀的九峰三泖,吸引了难计其数的文人墨客。造型优美、雄伟秀丽的唐陀罗尼经幢,是上海地面现存最古老的建筑物,为全国重点文物保护单位。经幢所处位置,原为唐代华亭县闹市中心。宋兴圣教寺塔(方塔),外形秀美,结构特别,塔檐四角之警鸟铜铃,风吹铃响,悦耳动听。清人诗云:“近海浮屠三十六,怎如方塔最玲珑”。老街南侧的元清真寺,是上海地区最古老的伊斯兰教寺院,经多次整修,仍保持元明时期的风格,大殿窑殿,气象雄大,南北讲堂与邦克门,风姿独特。明大型砖刻照壁、清醉白池,还有夏允彝、夏完淳父子墓、陈子龙墓、朱舜水纪念堂、侯绍裘烈士雕像等,都诉说着这里丰富多彩的历史。1998年,松江评选出历史名胜十二景,包括方塔风铃(方塔园)、鲈乡遗韵(四鳃鲈鱼)、唐幢流云(唐陀罗尼经幢)、浦江烟渚(黄浦江起始段)、醉白清荷(醉白池)、跨塘乘月(跨塘桥)、西林梵音(西林禅寺)、邦克落照(清真寺)、颐园听雨(颐园)、佘山修篁(佘山)、斜塔初雪(天马山)、华亭鹤影(小昆山)。2009年,佘山国家旅游度假区被列为沪上新八景之一—佘山拾翠。
松江为上海天主教活动基地。明末清初,松江是天主教活动重要基地。明万历年间,天主教耶稣会神甫毕方济来松江传教,发展了一批教徒,在邱家湾建立了第一座教堂。清初,徐光启的孙女甘第达(教名)将该堂扩建为天主教圣堂。鸦片战争以后,天主教传教士复来松江传教,于同治年间在佘山建立教堂,民国年间改建为圣母大堂。每年复活节、圣诞节,各处来登山礼拜的教徒络绎不绝,将这里视为天主教的圣地。1982年,在佘山西南麓创办中国天主教佘山修院,招生授业。佘山成为天主教在上海地区除了徐家汇之外的另一个活动中心。
改革开放以后,松江加速城市化步伐,区境面貌日新月异。按照上海全市的总体规划,这里新建了月湖雕塑公园、青青旅游世界、佘山高尔夫球场、五厍农业休闲观光园等融居住、实业、健身、休闲为一体的园区,有的接续文化余绪,有的展现时代新姿。尤其值得称道的是,这里辟设了规制宏大的大学园区,上海外国语大学、华东政法大学、上海对外贸易学院、东华大学、上海工程技术大学、上海立信会计学院、复旦大学上海视觉艺术学院、立达职业技术学院等高校移来这里,环境优美、格调高雅的大学校园,一校一貌,风姿各异,相映成趣,相得益彰,莘莘学子的琅琅书声,将这里的文化气息渲染得分外浓郁。松江在明清时代,本是上海地区文化最为繁盛的区域,大学园区的辟设,极大地提升松江地区的文化含量,突显了松江的文化特色,也接续了松江的文化传统。2006年,松江评选出“新十二景” ,其中包括海上寻梦(上海影视乐园)、月湖沉璧(月湖雕塑公园)、云间学林(大学园区)、英伦印象(泰晤士小镇)、四水会波(泗泾古镇)、凤凰戏珠(佘山高尔夫球场)、花桥观鹭(青青旅游世界)、五茸晓雾(中央公园)、三宅缘墨(华亭老街三宅)、天马追风(天马山赛车场)、园中飞鹞(市民广场)、泖田问秋
(五厍农业休闲观光园)。
经过改造的松江,文化底蕴丰厚,环境幽雅宜人,既保留传统,又新意迭出,既有浓重的东方底色,又有的亮丽西洋风情,清新,灵动,虬枝抽绿,生机勃勃,这正是上海城市精神的生动体现。一个有机地融古今中西为一体的文化松江,让八方来客叹为观止!
尔冬强先生是著名摄影艺术家,也是一个从视觉文献角度解读历史的很有成就的学者,他编写、出版过《最后一瞥-上海的西洋建筑》、《中国的教堂》、《凝固的乐章-中国工商银行历史建筑回眸》、《中国近代通商口岸》、《金色徐家汇》、《世纪杨浦》、《上海装饰艺术派》等数十本画册,蜚声海内外,在美国与中东、欧洲许多国家举办过影展。他摄编的画册,或沿海城市,或中西交通,或银行,或学校,或教会,或历史遗存,或当今新构,内容多样,风格各异,但有一个共同特点,就是既有摄影家敏锐的艺术视角,又有学者的丰厚底蕴,好看,精致,耐读,引人回味。每编一书,他都一丝不苟,精益求精,对所述对象广泛搜集资料,与同行专家反复切磋讨论,尽可能吸收学术界最新成果,对有关问题明其现状,溯其源流,析其特质,入其堂奥。
尔冬强先生对上海城市历史情有独钟,从上个世纪80年代开始,就背着相机,走遍上海大街小巷,有意识地广泛搜集上海城市历史资料。随着时光的流逝,他拍摄过的许多老建筑、老弄堂、老古董,已被城市改造的浪涛冲荡一空,新楼耸起,旧物无踪,这样,他保留下来的资料就显得弥足珍贵。正是由于这个原因,许多专门从事上海城市历史研究的学者,常常要到他的知识仓库里淘宝,向他请教,我也因此而与他成了好朋友。我们以往出版的许多书都用过他的资料。他摄编的这本《松江画册》,在我看来,内涵丰富,源流清晰,兼及古今,重点突出,摄影精美,释文准确,对于人们了解松江的前天、昨天与今天,了解松江的文化内蕴与特色,了解松江在上海乃至全国的地位,了解上海文化之根,都有重要的价值。
Introduction
Xiong Yuezhi
The name Songjiang refers to a place whose area and borders underwent dozens of changes in its history.
Songjiang, or literally the Song River, was a waterway that wound its course across Huating County. In Shangshu, an ancient literary classic, a paragraph mentioned that Huating was a place where “three rivers flow and form a lake.” The three rivers were identified as the Song, Lou and Dong rivers respectively by an account from the Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420 A.D.). Although the allegation is not without dispute, it is quite certain that in the ancient times the Song River, also known as the Wusong River, was a major waterway that originated from Lake Tai and flowed east into the sea, covering a large swath of land including today’s Kunshan, Jiading, Qingpu Counties and downtown Shanghai. In the Tang Dynasty (618-907 A.D.), the lower reaches of the river all belonged to Huating County.
In 751 A.D., Huating County was set up in today’s Songjiang; in 1277 it grew from a county into a prefecture, which was renamed Songjiang in the following year. In 1292, the prefecture of Songjiang was divided into two counties, namely Huating and Shanghai. Later Songjiang was divided into more and more counties within its territory, each encompassing a more diminished area than the last. In 1805, it had eight counties under its governance, i.e., Huating, Shanghai, Qingpu, Lou, Fengxian, Jinshan, Nanhui and Chuansha. In 1912, the prefecture was cancelled, and Huating merged with the neighboring Lou county. In 1914 Songjiang came up as a county; it became a part of Shanghai in 1958, and a district of the latter forty years later.
As mentioned above, today’s downtown Shanghai and the suburban districts of Songjiang, Qingpu, Fengxian, Jinshan, and Nanhui were all formerly parts of the Songjiang prefecture. In fact, today’s Songjiang government is located at the site of the former Huating government. Hence the present-day Songjiang district has a direct historical link with the former Huating and Songjiang counties, and the latter two were indisputably the origin of the Shanghai that you see today.
For this reason, of all the 19 districts and counties that make up Shanghai, Songjiang’s rich heritage from its long history is peerless.
Songjiang emerged from the sea earlier than today’s downtown area of Shanghai. With archeological findings, Songjiang can reasonably trace its lineage back some 6,000 years, to an era when its original inhabitants lived here and made a living by farming, hunting, fishing and raising livestock. The discovery of the Guangfulin archeological site has cast new light on the life of the original settlers. In the Western Han Dynasty (202 B.C.-9 A.D.), Songjiang was a major center of salt production. In the third century, Lu Xun was appointed as the governor of Huating for his military prowness, and the county then rose to prominence. The Lu family was of noble origin and lived on Lesser Kun Hill. Lu Xun and his two sons, Lu Ji and Lu Yun, were all remembered for their martial prowness and literary talent. Lu Ji’s letter to console his ailing friend is now housed in the Forbidden City Museum in Beijing, treasured for its fine calligraphy and unrivalled historic value. Today you can still find the terrace on Lesser Kun Hill where the Lu brothers studied, and the site of the former residence of Lu Ji in downtown Songjiang. The emergence of the elite class like the Lu’s and Huating’s designation as a county can be seen as evidence to the economic and cultural exuberance of the region in its day.
Songjiang was the seat of the regional government, and both Huating and Lou counties were under its governance. Most of the administrative offices were located in Songjiang, such as the county and prefecture governments, as were numerous cultural institutions, i.e., the Confucian Temple, the prefecture school, the county school, the Academy in the Clouds, and the Peace Academy. Songjiang was known for its educational excellence: it produced over 500 successful county candidates of the Imperial Examination from the Song to the Qing dynasties, outnumbering all other counties in the region. Since the 13th century, Songjiang has also proved to be a cradle of famous literati, such as the calligrapher Zhao Mengfu, the author Tao Zongyi, and the calligrapher-painter Dong Qichang. It was also the hometown of such heroes as Chen Zilong and Xia Wanchun. The Songjiang School of Painting is renowned in the Chinese art history, wielding influences far and wide. The tragic love of Chen Zilong and Liu Rushi is widely known, thanks to the latter’s biography by the Sinologist Chen Yanke.
In the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), Songjiang was the cotton production center of the entire country. The humming of the looms could be heard day and night in the rural as wells as the downtown areas. The cloth products of Songjiang were celebrated for their quality, quantity and wide variety and were thus marketed to many far-flung regions of China and even Japan. The cotton textile industry in Songjiang was also highly developed; in the early 17th century there were more than a hundred hosiery shops in the west of the town. Songjiang was thus reputed to be the “textile mill of the country.”
After the mid-19th century, Songjiang was eclipsed by Shanghai, and it yielded its former political, economic and cultural status to the latter. Yet it still played a critical role as a major agricultural base. Before 1971, its agricultural revenue provided a lion’s share of the regional economy, and that was supplemented by a steadily growing industrial sector whose contribution surpassed it from 1972 onwards. In 1990 then Songjiang County was nominated by the State Council as a model base for grain production. It is renowned for its delicious non-glutinous rice, quadruple gill lamella weevers, Sheshan Hill bamboo shoots, Caozhang Creek red water chestnuts, and Liu Creek crabs.
As its scenic splendor constantly attracts the literati, Songjiang also boasts a mélange of cultural relics they have left. The sublime Tang Dynasty Sutra Stele, now a national cultural relic, is the oldest memorial tablet in Shanghai, and its location was originally the heart of Huating. The Square Pagoda is famous for its elegant contour and unique structure, while the chimes of the wind-swept bells on its eave corners add to its charm. It is such a lovely landmark that a poem was written to extol it: “Among the thirty-six pagodas near the sea, where can a better one possibly be?” Founded in the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368 A.D.), the mosque south of the main street is the oldest of its kind in Shanghai. Although it has undergone several renovations, it still preserves its original architectural style. Its two main lecture halls remain as magnificent as ever. The screen wall from the Ming Dynasty, the Intoxicating Lake, the tombs of the Xia’s, the tomb of Chen Zilong, the Zhu Shunshui Memorial Hall, the sculpture of the gallant martyr Hou Shaoqiu all make Songjiang a living museum of history.
Songjiang is also a seat of Catholicism in Shanghai. In the 17th century, when Songjiang was the base for the burgeoning Catholicism, Father Francesco Sambiasi (1582-1649) of Societas Jesus came to preach in Songjiang, and it was here that he made his first converts and built the first Catholic church of the region. In the mid-17th century, Paul Xu’s granddaughter Candida expanded the church. After the Opium War, Catholic missionaries resumed their activities in Songjiang, and they built a new church on Sheshan Hill, one that later became a much grander Notre Dame Basilica in the 1930s. Every Easter and Christmas, this sacred place attracts a large number of pilgrims, making Sheshan Hill another Catholic center in Shanghai in addition to Xujiahui. In 1982 the first theological seminary in China was founded on the southwest slope of Sheshan Hill.
Since the late 1970s, Songjiang has gained increasing momentum in its urbanization drive, and its townscape has been greatly developed. In line with the masterplan of greater Shanghai, a new range of tourism, sports and entertainment facilities have appeared on the scene, notably the Moon Lake Sculpture Park, the Qingqing Tourism Park, the Sheshan Hill Golf Course, and the Wuku Agriculture Garden. An even more impressive project is the expansive Songjiang University City, where eight space-starved institutions have located their new campuses, i.e., the Shanghai International Studies University, East China University of Political Science and Law, Donghua University, Shanghai Institute of Visual Art, Shanghai Institute of Foreign Trade, Shanghai Lixin University of Commerce, and Shanghai University of Engineering Science. Each campus has its distinctive features, and their scholastic ambience helps extend the cultural lineage of Songjiang, a historical hub of the literati and of education.
In 2006, “Twelve New Scenes of Songjiang” were selected to represent the best of the region, and each of them bears a lyrical title:
1. Dreamland on the Sea (Shanghai Film Studio Amusement Park);
2. Sunken Jade in the Moon Lake (Moon Lake Sculpture Park);
3. School in the Cloud-Enveloped Woods (Songjiang University City);
4. British Impressions (Thames Town);
5. Juncture of Four Rippling Creeks (Sijing old town);
6. Phoenixes Chasing a Pearl (Sheshan Hill Golf Course)
7. Viewing Egret from the Flower Bridge (Qingqing Tourism Park);
8. Morning Mist in Songjiang (Central Park);
9. Three Ink-Scented Houses (three historic buildings on the Main Street of Huating);
10. Chasing the Wind on Tianma Hill (Tianma Hill F1 Race Course);
11. Flying Kites over the Park (Citizens’ Square);
12. A Touch of Autumn in the Fields (Wuku Agriculture Garden).
After years of construction, Songjiang has morphed into a suburban district with a harmonious blend of the quintessential faces of the old and the new. As it maintains its vernacular flavor and introduces new features from the West, its vibrant townscape and multi-faceted beauty have won favorable comments from its visitors.
Deke Erh, the author of this volume, is a celebrated photographer and historian. He has edited and compiled over ten books including A Last Look, God and Country, Far From Home, The Last Colonies, and Shanghai Art Deco, each to great acclaim at home and abroad. He has also held exhibitions in the USA, Europe and the Middle East. In whatever subjects he examines, whether banks or schools, historic buildings or new architecture, he manifests his unique senses of aesthetics and scholastic grounding in his books, beckoning readers to return to them time and again. While working on each book, he collected a vast amount of materials and insatiably consulted fellow researchers to trace the historical origins of the subject matter and explain what makes it special today.
Deke Erh has an unusual affinity for the social history of Shanghai. Since the 1980s, he has been doing exhaustive documentation of Shanghai with his camera, and has built an amazing visual archive on his extensive field trips. In the past two decades, many old neighborhoods and architectural relics that he has captured in his photos have disappeared in the name of “progress”. For this reason his photos have proved to be a treasure trove much sought after by his fellow researchers. As one of his beneficiaries and friends, I have used reference materials that he provided in several of my books. This volume, that I regard as a comprehensive document of Songjiang, covers its past and present; it is notable for its stunning photos and detailed text and captions. It is a valuable guidebook for those curious about Songjiang, its culture, its pivotal role as the origin of Shanghai and its acknowledged status in China.(文章来源:《上海之根---松江》)
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